Joints sunk back from the brick
When the mortar wears back and leaves a little ledge on each brick, water sits there and soaks in. That's usually the first thing I check when I walk a wall.
Crumbling or sunken mortar between your bricks? We cut out the worn joints and fill them with mortar matched to your wall.

Tuckpointing in Chino means cutting out the worn mortar between your bricks and packing in fresh mortar, so the wall keeps water out and the joints look whole again. We've been doing this work from our base in Chino since 2017, for homes here and in the cities around it.
Most calls start with sand piling up under a wall or joints that have sunk back from the face of the brick. Price mostly comes down to how many square feet need work, how deep the old mortar has failed, how tall the wall is and whether you want plain joints or the decorative style, and the schedule turns on the same things plus getting the color match right. Your estimate spells those out for your wall. Chino's Building Division says the safest course is to call and ask whether planned work needs a permit, so when it isn't clear for a job, we check with them before we start.
I come out myself to look at the wall and write the estimate. Our own crew does the work, and I check on it as it goes, so the job matches what we talked about.
I ask a lot of questions on the first visit, about leaks, past repairs and the look you want, because the right fix depends on what's actually going on with your wall.
California only lets someone work without a contractor's license on minor jobs up to $1,000, and only when no permit is needed and nobody works for them. We're licensed and insured.
First I ask whether you want a plain repair that blends with your joints or the older decorative look with brick-colored joints and a thin contrasting line. Then we mix a small batch and try it in a spot you won't see, because fresh mortar dries lighter or darker than it looks wet and we want it matching your joints before it goes on the whole wall. Once the color's right, our crew cuts the worn mortar back to sound material, cleans out the joints, packs in the new mortar and tools each joint to the shape you have now, then we brush down the wall and clean up.
If cutting out the joints turns up cracked or loose bricks, that's brick repair, and we take care of it before the new mortar goes in. Plenty of brick walls and planters sit right along the driveway, so if yours is cracked or worn too, we also put in driveway pavers and can look at both while we're there.
When the mortar wears back and leaves a little ledge on each brick, water sits there and soaks in. That's usually the first thing I check when I walk a wall.
If you can scrape a joint with a fingertip and it comes out as sand, the mortar has stopped doing its job, even where the wall still looks fine from the street.
Small voids and missing chunks let rain straight into the wall behind the face. They're easy to miss until you look along the wall in low, slanting light.
Fine cracks in the mortar, or a thin gap where it has pulled away from the brick edge, are worth a look. Some can wait, as the questions below explain.
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time. I'll come out, look at the joints and write a free on-site estimate, with no obligation to go ahead.
A couple of close photos of the worn mortar help me see how deep the damage goes before I come out, so I show up with the right questions.
Give a rough height and length for the wall, because height changes how we set up the job and what it costs, and length tells me how much mortar we're replacing.
Let us know if you want plain repair or the older decorative style with a thin contrasting line, so the estimate covers the work you actually have in mind.
These photos show joint profiles, mortar colors and brick and paver layouts worth talking through when we plan your project.
Here's what people usually ask me about worn mortar joints, what the repair costs and whether a crack needs fixing now.
Yes, tuckpointing and repointing are the same repair, cutting out damaged mortar and filling the joints with new mortar. The word also covers an older decorative style, where the joints are colored to match the brick and a thin contrasting strip is added so they look very thin.
Tuckpointing only fixes the problem when the damage stays in the mortar joints. One cost guide says leaks, stair-step cracks and loose or cracked bricks mean the brick itself needs repair, and that the cause gets found and fixed before any repointing starts. That's why I look at the brick and the cause, not only the joints, before I price anything.
Repointing brick across the US usually costs about $3 to $25 per square foot of wall. Walls above 8 feet run more per square foot because they need scaffolding. Your own number comes from the estimate once I've seen the wall and measured it.
The brick industry says new mortar should be equal to or weaker than the old mortar, because a harder mix puts stress on older brick and can make its face flake off, what masons call spalling. Type O is often used on older brickwork and Type N may suit newer brick, and it's fair to ask any crew which type they plan to use.
A masonry trade group puts mortar at roughly 25 to 50 years, while the brick itself lasts about 100 years or more. That gap is why a sound brick wall needs repointing now and then over its life, and why it's usually worth saving good brick instead of replacing it.
Not every mortar crack needs fixing right away. A 2005 brick industry guide lists hairline cracks, cracks between brick and mortar, crumbling mortar, voids and joints worn back more than 1/4 inch as reasons to repoint. A later industry note says cracked mortar doesn't necessarily need repair right away in cavity and veneer walls, since they can handle some extra moisture from minor cracks.
Call (909) 479-6261 or send the form, since catching worn joints early usually keeps the repair to mortar instead of brick.